I'm having a look through all the posts here and looked at the site that Mike Posted Here and I came across this page . Toward the bottom there is some info listed under the title "Starting a flooded bike" Does this work with all bikes? From reading it I would think it would work for all bikes but I just thought I would ask incase it is a big no no on the older pigs. I went out for my first off road ride a few weeks back and of course layed he over more than once but on the 3rd/last time it was to her right and it took me a bloody half hour to get her started, combination of flooded bike and unknowledgalbe green rider. If I was to try what was stated there would she have fired?

Righto champ after you and your BRP have had a lay down to wait for all the other riders to catch up you need to go through this simple age old procedure.

Turn the kill switch off

Hold the decompression lever in

Hold the throttle wide open

Kick it 6 to 10 times whilst doing the above

Release the throttle

Turn it on

Find TDC pull the decompression lever back in to bump it just over TDC release the lever

Give it one solid kick with NO THROTTLE and it will pur like a kitten

Once you do it a few times it becomes 2nd nature and is quick and simple

Your bike should always start normally (not crashed just pulled up) when hot by find TDC, just using the decompression lever to rock it over TDC, release the lever and give it a solid kick again no throttle


TB

Oh i know all about flooding xr's syco ...i started riding back in april of last year...on a xr 400.For those first few months the little red pig and i spent most of our time upside down,inside out and flooded in the most awfull bloody places,it was really doing my head in and sapping me of all my energy.
Follow TB's advice and it turns a drawn out expeience into a piece of cake






Then i went and bought a yamaha





Bol

when you have a moment you should just pick up your drz and then press the magic yellow button and away you go

Boony wrote:
when you have a moment you should just pick up your drz and then press the magic yellow button and away you go


geez, those new fangled DRZ's are bloody great 'eh boony
















by that i mean they are not quite as shit as a honda

That worked like a dream when I went over twice to the left but when I went to my right I think I must have held the throttle open and give her a real gut full. I sat there for a good half hour giving her three good kicks from just past tdc then would turn off the fuel and ignition and do the decomp/full throttle and 10 or more kicks then try it all over again. I can tell you I was stuffed. That is why I asked about the above link. Has any one had a pig not want to strat like that?
On another note I have noticed that if she doesn't start the first or second kick then I have to clear her then try again, she will start then first time, no matter if it is cold or warm it is like this, is this normal with the xr's?

Oh and one other thing, when I first got her I could kick her till I was blue in the face and it wouldn't start and a mate said find tdc then go just past then give her a quick flick of the throttle then kick her. Since doing that she basicaly always starts first kick but I'm asuming that is why if it doesn't she floads. Would this be correct? What can I change on her, if this is the case, to remove the little flick of the throttle?

BOLLOCKS wrote:
Oh i know all about flooding xr's syco ...i started riding back in april of last year...on a xr 400.For those first few months the little red pig and i spent most of our time upside down,inside out and flooded in the most awfull bloody places,it was really doing my head in and sapping me of all my energy.
Follow TB's advice and it turns a drawn out expeience into a piece of cake


We all know this is untrue. You never rode that xr far enough in one go to fall off. Too busy stopping for smoke/drink breaks (even in races) to ever go more than 100 yards. And don't pretend the drink breaks were for water either.

Trailboss wrote:
Righto champ after you and your BRP have had a lay down to wait for all the other riders to catch up you need to go through this simple age old procedure.

Turn the kill switch off

Hold the decompression lever in

Hold the throttle wide open

Kick it 6 to 10 times whilst doing the above

Release the throttle

Turn it on

Find TDC pull the decompression lever back in to bump it just over TDC release the lever

Give it one solid kick with NO THROTTLE and it will pur like a kitten

Once you do it a few times it becomes 2nd nature and is quick and simple

Your bike should always start normally (not crashed just pulled up) when hot by find TDC, just using the decompression lever to rock it over TDC, release the lever and give it a solid kick again no throttle


TB
I just hit the magic button

sorry, couldn't resist

Back on topic

Hatto

Why are you stalling/flooding so often?

sounds a bit suss to me.

Bundyroy wrote:
BOLLOCKS wrote:
Oh i know all about flooding xr's syco ...i started riding back in april of last year...on a xr 400.For those first few months the little red pig and i spent most of our time upside down,inside out and flooded in the most awfull bloody places,it was really doing my head in and sapping me of all my energy.
Follow TB's advice and it turns a drawn out expeience into a piece of cake


We all know this is untrue. You never rode that xr far enough in one go to fall off. Too busy stopping for smoke/drink breaks (even in races) to ever go more than 100 yards. And don't pretend the drink breaks were for water either.

busted

Syco26,
How long since it had a new spark plug and when was its last valve check/adjustment?
Crash

I put a new plug in it last week. Not sure of the last time it had a valve adjustment. I have noticed this week it seems a hell of a lot easier to start, even cold, first kick just about every time. If it isn't first kick, which 9 times out of 10 it is, it will be second. If it isn't second then it won't start and I have to to the above mentioned start procedure then it goes on first kick.

syco26 wrote:
I put a new plug in it last week. Not sure of the last time it had a valve adjustment. I have noticed this week it seems a hell of a lot easier to start, even cold, first kick just about every time. If it isn't first kick, which 9 times out of 10 it is, it will be second. If it isn't second then it won't start and I have to to the above mentioned start procedure then it goes on first kick.

Sounds like she is running sweet to me. Typical XR behavior for a bike that is jetted right.

syco26,
I guess bikes can have their own little idiosyncracies, I know my bike hates the slightest throttle flick when starting. Must be a no throttle start or it just floods and has to be cleared again.
I've only done about 5000km or so on my 650, I have checked the valves x5 times....I have not had to touch the exhaust valves and have only had to adjust the inlets twice. Each time I have....be it actual or psychological, it always seems to start easier, have a snappier performance and sounds so much crisper.
Crash

crash wrote:
syco26,
I guess bikes can have their own little idiosyncracies, I know my bike hates the slightest throttle flick when starting. Must be a no throttle start or it just floods and has to be cleared again.
I've only done about 5000km or so on my 650, I have checked the valves x5 times....I have not had to touch the exhaust valves and have only had to adjust the inlets twice. Each time I have....be it actual or psychological, it always seems to start easier, have a snappier performance and sounds so much crisper.
Crash


I will go along with that Crash, mine is same same



TB

Is checking and adjusting the valves an easy task? I am by no means a mechanic but I'm not afraid to read and learn and try my hand at most things. I would really like to do all the mechanical work on her myself as I think I will have her for years to come and don't have the coin to fill other's pockets if it is something I can do once learnt. I have a workshop manual on my PC which I would assume would detail it, any other links that would be helpful, tips, tricks and tooling that would help me? Thanks

17mm socket and ratchet
10mm ring spanner
24 mm spanner
flat blade screw driver
feeler guages

that is pretty well all you need to do your valve clearances.Yep the manual will tell you how to do it